Vacuum Tube Audio Gear

I messed up the bridge rectifier which is on 300b board and no sound. Also that 300 would not light up. I messed up by soldering the ground to the positive side where the 25 watt resisort connects. Had a pop but didn't fail right away. It gave out while sitting not powered on. Now I have voltage difference on both sides.

Bridge rectifier went bad and ended up replacing more parts. Curious why both drivers are not wired the same? My left and right have big voltage drop 1-5 volt drop depending place of measurement. It looks like it's at the driver stage. I swapped multiple 6sn7's and still blame the circuit. Measured power being fed and it clears.

Manufacturer put higher and low values

also they are placed at the end of the line to ground.

To your question I had the same.one and found those resistors on the rectifier diagram. I think its called the input transformer. look at both diagrams Original and Skunkie version

Finished coupler caps with Mundorf .33uF MKP. sounds bit livelier out of my Def Tech BP 6. Bass is never an issue on those speakers. Easy dead center image coming from behind the stage with the help of the rear drivers.

So far completed just two modifications. 47uf 500v ripple cap and bypass that other cap. waiting on coupler caps. notice the top end is lacking and using my Schiit Lokius fixes the lack of liveliness. What stinks I didn't watch the entire series and purchased the first set of .33uF coupler caps. For the front end I had to teach myself how to read the diagram and draw a mock representation of the sockets wired up. I became confused about the two resistors that look connected to the left tube I think they are little 100 ohm units attached to the black cables which come from rear and connect each tube and guessing that's power? Figured out from the other diagram that's where they are exist. I swapped tubes and that improved the the performance by fixing the noise the drivers made and the GZ33 I am using did something but not sure how to describe it. Waiting on Parts Connexion If I upgrade the couplers from the Mundorf .33uF MKP's I purchased, are Jantzen Superior Z-caps any good for the price? If not is there a sub that can be recommend for less?

Amazing how crappy just the Rec and drivers they give you are. My Estat does not have any hiss or hum since replacing with GZ34 and some Canadian Military 6sn7 tubes. 12 on the dial is when the noise comes back before zero volume had noise.

I want to use my GZ34 NOS Philips can I before modding?

Can you only change the rectifier once you complete the basic mod?